Water coming through the ceiling? The first hour: safety and documentation
- Stay safe. Keep people out from under a ceiling that is bulging or sagging with water, and keep away from wet light fixtures and outlets. Switch off power to an affected area only from a dry location.
- Catch and contain. Put buckets or containers under drips and move furniture, rugs, electronics and papers to a dry room.
- Photograph before anything changes. Georgia's Office of Commissioner of Insurance and Safety Fire advises taking photographs or video of the damage before temporary repairs, if possible.
- Report the claim promptly. The same guidance says to file as soon as possible because your policy might require notice within a certain time frame.
- Arrange temporary protection. A tarp or other temporary cover stops more water from entering while the permanent repair is planned.
What Georgia's insurance regulator says about temporary repairs
The Commissioner's claim tips say homeowners policies might require you to make temporary repairs to protect your property from further damage, that your policy should cover the cost of those temporary repairs, and that you should keep all receipts. They also say to keep damaged personal property for the adjuster to inspect, and not to make permanent repairs before the damage is inspected, because an insurer may deny a claim if you do. GEMA's insurance planning guidance lists covering leaking roofs among the repairs needed to prevent further damage, and repeats the advice to wait on permanent repairs until the insurer has inspected and you have agreed on the cost.
In practice, that means separating mitigation (stopping the damage from getting worse: tarping, removing standing water, drying) from restoration (replacing drywall, insulation, paint and roofing). Ask anyone who does mitigation work to itemize it separately so the adjuster can see what was done to stop further damage. For hail and wind claims specifically, see our Johns Creek hail and wind roof insurance claims guide.
Wet attic insulation
Loose-fill and batt insulation hold water against ceiling drywall and framing, and wet insulation loses much of its value as insulation. EPA's mold guidance says absorbent or porous materials, such as ceiling tiles and carpet, may have to be thrown away if they become moldy, because mold can fill the spaces in porous materials and be difficult or impossible to remove completely. Soaked insulation is usually bagged and removed from the wet area so the decking, framing and drywall below can dry. Ask for the area of insulation removed and the type and R-value of the replacement to be written into the scope, so bids can be compared.
The attic is also where ventilation and the leak path meet. Intake and exhaust vents that are blocked by wet insulation, or a bathroom fan that discharges into the attic, add moisture after the roof is fixed. Our roof ventilation in Johns Creek guide explains how balanced intake and exhaust work.
Ceiling drywall: dry in place or remove
A small stain on drywall that dries quickly can sometimes be sealed and repainted once the source is fixed. Drywall that is sagging, soft or crumbling, or that stays wet, is normally cut out. Removal also exposes the back of the drywall and the joist bays above, which is where hidden growth often starts. EPA says not to paint or caulk moldy surfaces, and to clean up mold and dry the area before painting.
The 24 to 48 hour window
EPA's Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and Your Home says that if wet or damp materials or areas are dried within 24 to 48 hours after a leak or spill happens, in most cases mold will not grow. That is the practical reason to move fast on a storm leak: remove standing water, pull soaked insulation, open up wet cavities where needed, and run drying equipment until materials are dry. A drying contractor will typically take moisture readings at the start and again until materials reach a dry standard; ask for those readings in writing.
IICRC S500 and S520, as described by IICRC
Many restoration estimates refer to IICRC standards. According to IICRC's public page, S500, the Standard for Professional Water Damage Restoration, describes the procedures to follow and precautions to take when performing water damage restoration in residential, commercial and institutional buildings. IICRC notes that S500 assumes the determination and correction of the underlying source of the water intrusion is the property owner's responsibility, not the restorer's, though the owner may hire the restorer or other experts to do it. For a roof leak, that means the roof repair is a separate step from drying the house. If mold is already present, IICRC describes S520 as its procedural standard for professional mold remediation, including post-remediation verification.
When mold is already visible
EPA says that if the moldy area is less than about 10 square feet, in most cases a homeowner can handle the cleanup following its guidelines; if there has been a lot of water damage, or growth covers more than 10 square feet, consult EPA's guidance on mold remediation in larger buildings. EPA also says not to run the HVAC system if you know or suspect it is contaminated with mold, because it could spread mold through the building.
Permits for the roof and interior repairs
The City of Johns Creek's permit guidance says non-structural minor repairs costing less than $2,500 may be performed without a permit only with the Building Official's permission, and work requiring structural alterations needs a permit. Georgia's State Minimum Standard Codes are administered by the Department of Community Affairs, and the City publishes the codes it enforces. If decking or framing was damaged by the leak, ask the roofer whether the repair needs a permit before work starts. A roof inspection after the storm can document the leak source for the claim.
Requirements and guidance at a glance
Short answer: the table below runs from $6.50 (Building permit, minor alteration of an existing structure) up to $50 (Administration fee, on all permits), according to City of Johns Creek fee schedule. These are published government figures; labor and materials for the job come from a written quote.
| Item | City rule or fee | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Roof replacement, no structural work (up to 32 sq ft of decking) | No building permit required | City of Johns Creek, Do I Need a Permit? |
| Roof work requiring structural alterations | Building permit required | City of Johns Creek, Do I Need a Permit? |
| Building permit, minor alteration of an existing structure | 30% × $6.50 per $1,000 of valuation; $175 minimum | City of Johns Creek fee schedule |
| Building permit, major alteration of an existing structure | 40% × $6.50 per $1,000 of valuation; $175 minimum | City of Johns Creek fee schedule |
| Administration fee, on all permits | $50 | City of Johns Creek fee schedule |
| Work done without a required permit | Double the total permit fees | City of Johns Creek fee schedule |
| Non-structural minor repairs costing under $2,500 | May be done without a permit, only with the Building Official's permission | City of Johns Creek, Do I Need a Permit? |
Sources: City of Johns Creek, Do I Need a Permit?; City of Johns Creek, Community Development Fee Schedule (PDF).
Local rules and code references
- U.S. EPA, A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and Your Home: 24–48 hour drying, 10 sq ft guidance, porous materials, HVAC caution.
- Georgia Office of Commissioner of Insurance and Safety Fire, Insurance Claim Tips: temporary repairs, receipts, no permanent repairs before inspection.
- GEMA/HS, Insurance Planning: covering leaking roofs to prevent further damage.
- City of Johns Creek, Do I Need a Permit? and City of Johns Creek Building Codes.
- Georgia DCA, State Minimum Standard Codes.
- IICRC S500 and IICRC S520 standard descriptions.
Code text and department procedures change; confirm current requirements with the City of Johns Creek and your insurer before work starts.